Manchester’s Kiku Boutique has spent 18 years making clothes for people who would rather stand out than fit in. Founded by Lynn McKay in 2008, the Northern Quarter boutique specialises in bespoke corsetry, alternative bridalwear, lingerie and eveningwear, with a focus on beautiful fabrics, sustainability and individual expression.
At the inaugural Alternative Fashion Week Manchester in October, Kiku unveiled its playful ‘What’s New Pussycat’ collection, inspired by a clowder of cat hats from milliner Lilly Lewis. It was a fitting showcase for a boutique that has remained fiercely independent while rejecting the throwaway culture of fast fashion.
LOUD WOMEN caught up with Lynn backstage to talk about 18 years in business, the women who have shaped her journey and why getting older is no reason to stop dressing boldly.
Interview with Lynn McKay
For anyone discovering Kiku for the first time, tell us a little about yourself and the journey that led to founding the boutique.
I worked at Vintage to Fetish in Afflecks Palace for 16 years, selling everything from latex, PVC, chainmail and corsets to all manner of gothic and alternative attire, serving Manchester’s underground scenes. I actually worked for Elaine Walsh, who founded Afflecks Palace in 1982, and when her lease was up, she gave me the opportunity to either carry on with V2F or take some redundancy money and set up my own business. I decided that the time was right to leave and start again, so I used the money to set up Kiku Boutique and create a space that reflected my personality.
I’ve been immersed in subcultures from an early age, through music and, of course, fashion. I learnt to sew at an early age, making outfits on my bedroom floor to wear to the local alt clubs in Leigh and in Manchester city centre.
The fashion industry has changed dramatically during this time. How has Kiku evolved while staying true to its identity?
With fast fashion being so toxic, we stopped buying off more mainstream suppliers. Everything we sell is made by either me, Sadia, who makes our corsets, or Lilly Lewis Millinery. Me and Sadia use a lot of deadstock and we repurpose vintage Japanese fabrics, which has become a bit of an obsession!
You will be seeing more of this from us. It’s how I want to dress and I love exploring different styles. I’m 60 now and I want to wear unique, unusual styles in beautiful fabrics that are well made and will fit with my existing wardrobe. I want other women to feel the same and be able to express their personalities.
How did you first become involved with Alternative Fashion Week Manchester, and what made you want to be part of its inaugural event?
I’ve known the organiser Leesa for a while, and she popped into the shop and asked me! I thought it would be a great opportunity as I’ve been involved with alternative fashion in this city for over 30 years, and it’s a brilliant event for emerging talent to showcase their work.
How did you decide which pieces best represented Kiku on the catwalk?
I had a very short time to prepare and it just so happened that Lilly Lewis Millinery sent me a clowder of cat hats in various fabrics, so I used this as inspiration to pull together a cohesive collection. Sadia (my corsetier) made some new bustiers, I used some existing pieces alongside some new items I made, and created the ‘What’s New Pussycat’ collection. A little bit tongue in cheek, as fashion does need to be fun sometimes!
Who or what inspires your creative work? Are there any particular designers, artists, cultures or experiences that influence your collections?
I find inspiration from a broad spectrum of objects and designers, and I love seeking out culture, visiting galleries and looking at history. I love book illustrators such as Erté, Harry Clarke and Aubrey Beardsley, artists like Leonora Carrington, Hilma af Klint and Artemisia Gentileschi, and designers including Vivienne Westwood, John Galliano, Yohji Yamamoto and Rei Kawakubo.
LOUD WOMEN celebrates women who challenge expectations and forge their own path. Is there a woman who has particularly inspired your journey?
Elaine Walsh, who I worked with in Afflecks Palace, was a massive inspiration for me. Starting a project like Afflecks Palace to help younger people set up business is awe-inspiring, and I learnt a lot from her over the years.
And finally, who is your favourite Loud Woman, and why?
Peaches! Do I need to explain? What a woman. She’s my age group and is still showing us how it’s done! I’ve seen her live a couple of times and she’s absolutely incredible. Take note, she’s a powerhouse!
Find out more:
Alternative Fashion Week Manchester